Amberley to Cocking – South Downs Way

This section of the South Downs Way is relatively gentle in comparison to longer, more undulating parts of the route. This 19.5km hike takes you through lush fields, over towering peaks with panoramic views, and through a rare shaded woodland section as you make your descent into Cocking. The terrain is changeable, with a mix of chalk paths, gravel, grass and tarmac. Be sure to wear comfortable, appropriate footwear to take on this route as you’re on your feet for a while, plus parts of the path can be uneven underfoot.

The hike begins on a quaint lane in Amberley and ends in the equally peaceful and picturesque village of Cocking. As with other sections, walking this part of the South Downs Way from East to West you’ll find the ascents are mostly long and gentle, while the descents are steep, save for one particularly vertical climb up to Bignor Hill (see photo).

As this is a point-to-point route, we recommend arriving by public transport to avoid having to circle back to your vehicle. There are trains to Amberley station from Brighton as well as from surrounding villages like Arundel. Once you reach Cocking, you can take the number 60 bus towards Midhurst in the North, or Chichester to the South where the bus station is opposite the train station, for easy connections to surrounding towns.

Hikers are rewarded for their efforts along this route with a variety of particularly impressive views. While the ascent up Bignor Hill is short and steep, the sweeping views at the top are worth it as inland you’ll spot the North Downs, while out to sea the Isle of Wight is visible on a clear day. Looking back along the South Downs, you’ll be able to see the cluster of trees atop the edge of the hillside at Chanctonbury Ring, that you passed while hiking the previous section of the Way.

Passing through the National Trust owned Slindon Estate, a thoughtfully-placed bench beside the hedgerow is the perfect stopping point to sit and admire views over the South Coast. The dry valley at Upwaltham is another great opportunity to stop and look around at the undulating hills you’ve walked over, before you head through the woodland at Graffham Down that’s reminiscent of the Shire. Bronze Age burial mounds line the path at Heyshott Down (see photo) as you make your way into the pretty village of Cocking, with its postcard-perfect cottages and windows painted in the area’s famous Gold Cup yellow, marking the buildings as part of the Cowdray Estate.

While there are many towns and villages surrounding the South Downs Way for this stint, these require deviations from the route and will therefore add a lot of time to your hike if you choose to make your way to and from the path to find food. We recommend packing enough to eat for your hike and a few snacks to keep you going along the way, as there are few places to stop en route. Beginning in Amberley, there are 2 food stops in close proximity to Amberley train station – the highly-rated, traditional Bridge Inn pub, and Riverside Tea Rooms where you can enjoy a relaxing bite to eat on the river before you begin your walk.

At Upwaltham, the only village you’ll pass through during this part of the South Downs Way, there’s a Cadence Clubhouse – one of many that are purposely stationed along the South Downs Way to cater to passing walkers and cyclists. Having previously stopped at the Litlington Cadence, we were delighted to find the Upwaltham location and enjoyed a delicious chai latte as we checked our guidebook for the journey ahead. We highly recommend a stop here – there are hot and cold drinks, smoothies, mouth-wateringly-good sourdough toasties and baked goods, plus a portaloo and ample outdoor seating to take the weight off your feet. At the end point of this hike, in Cocking, there’s another Cadence Clubhouse, or you can walk 15 minutes North into the centre of Cocking to find The Blue Bell serving classic pub food. You can also stay at The Blue Bell for a peaceful night’s sleep in one of their 3 rooms, one of which is dog-friendly.

We recommend carrying plenty of water bottles for your hike, which you can refill at the Cadence in Upwaltham. There are more than a few places along the way to sit and admire the sweeping views as you refuel with snacks, including intricately carved, animal-themed benches provided by Friends of the South Downs (see photo). If you’re bringing a dog with you on this hike, it’s vital to ensure you carry enough water for both you and your dog – especially in hot weather. The majority of this section of the South Downs is very exposed, so make sure you bring sun cream on sunny days, or a rain jacket in inclement weather! You’ll find livestock grazing along many parts of this route, so keep your dogs under close control and give the animals space. The good news is that this part of the country is very dog-friendly, and you’ll find bins for poo bags in all the towns and villages, so there’s no excuse for leaving them in the countryside. (If you do need to carry them for a short while, we know just the item to bring with you!)

Find more routes following sections of the South Downs Way by searching ‘South Downs Way’ on our Walks page.